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WEBVTT
Kind: captions
Language: en
00:00:00.000 --> 00:00:01.000
English (AU) (Spoken) [Manually Transcribed Captions]
github.com/WizardTim/WizardTim-captions
00:00:01.000 --> 00:00:06.560
This here is an AudioMoth from Open Acoustic
Devices, these devices are typically used for
00:00:06.560 --> 00:00:12.080
ecoacoustic applications as they can record
ultrasound frequencies however they're useful
00:00:12.080 --> 00:00:16.560
in pretty much any application that involves
recording over a large period of time.
00:00:16.560 --> 00:00:23.200
This particular unit is an AudioMoth 1.0 which has a
bit of a problem in which the switch overhangs the
00:00:23.200 --> 00:00:28.800
PCB which makes it very accessible and easy to use
however it leaves the switch rather vulnerable to
00:00:28.800 --> 00:00:33.680
breaking off like we see here on this one. And
I should also mention that this is sometimes
00:00:33.680 --> 00:00:38.880
a problem with the [micro] SD card slot as well if you
have a particularly tight custom enclosure it
00:00:38.880 --> 00:00:45.840
can snap the SD card. Now this problem has been
fixed on the AudioMoth 1.1 and the new 1.2 as
00:00:45.840 --> 00:00:51.360
you see here the switch is recessed into the PCB
and a number of other improvements have also been
00:00:51.360 --> 00:00:57.840
made such as lowering the noise floor and adding
an external microphone jack however the old 1.0
00:00:58.480 --> 00:01:04.560
PCB is still perfectly fine for pretty much all
applications so I'd like to fix this one here
00:01:04.560 --> 00:01:11.200
today and show you as well how to do it. There is
actually a post on the [Open Acoustic Devices] forum page
00:01:11.200 --> 00:01:17.360
about another person who's also fixed a broken
switch however their approach involves taking
00:01:17.360 --> 00:01:22.880
off the battery holder which requires you to
desolder it and well I don't particularly want to
00:01:22.880 --> 00:01:27.040
do that and I imagine a lot of other people don't
particularly want to have to desolder it as well
00:01:27.040 --> 00:01:32.000
so I'm going to show you here how to do it without
desoldering anything this here is the switch
00:01:32.000 --> 00:01:40.868
that's used on the AudioMoth it's a Nidec Copal
series CSS1310, you can get this from pretty much any
00:01:40.868 --> 00:01:46.473
electronics component supplier such as Digi-Key
or Farnell or element14 or Mouser
00:01:46.473 --> 00:01:49.453
and in some cases you can even find it on eBay.
00:01:49.453 --> 00:01:56.240
So i'll leave some links in the description below if you want to get them just keep in mind that wherever you are in the world shipping might be more expensive
00:01:56.240 --> 00:02:05.561
than the switches themselves so shop around.
Now if we take a look at the switch we can see that there's three major components to it there's the plastic black body
00:02:05.561 --> 00:02:14.960
as well as the white sliding element along with a metal clip that retains this
we want to unclip this metal retaining bracket
00:02:14.960 --> 00:02:20.703
and we can do this by just putting in a metal
spudger underneath the clip and levering it up...
00:02:23.493 --> 00:02:30.533
on either sides and then just pulling it out like
this and today we're going to use both the slider
00:02:30.560 --> 00:02:36.000
nub as well as the metal retaining bracket
however don't throw out the plastic black
00:02:36.000 --> 00:02:40.640
body just in case you need it one day put it
back with the other switches. Now to remove
00:02:40.640 --> 00:02:47.120
the old switch we have to remove this bracket
however it's very difficult to try and unclip it
00:02:47.120 --> 00:02:51.760
so we're going to try and cut it in half.
So I've just got a pair of old tweezers that I
00:02:51.760 --> 00:02:57.760
don't care about bending and I'm going to shove it
in here and bend up so that we can cut it in half.
00:03:03.680 --> 00:03:07.760
And now that I've bent it up sufficiently I
can just cut it with a pair of side cutters
00:03:15.040 --> 00:03:20.160
and with it cut I can get a lot more leverage on
it with the side cutters now so I can pull it up
00:03:20.160 --> 00:03:26.160
even further and get the other side up where I can
cut it and that also just cut pretty much the same
00:03:29.680 --> 00:03:35.680
and now if it cut it's much much easier to
just remove it and we can remove both parts
00:03:35.680 --> 00:03:40.560
and remove the sliding element and this is also
a good opportunity to give it a little bit of
00:03:40.560 --> 00:03:45.360
a clean as well. Now in order to get the new
metal bracket on you'll notice that there's
00:03:45.360 --> 00:03:50.400
two little pins at the bottom these are to give
it some extra strength and hold it in place
00:03:50.400 --> 00:03:56.080
however we're not going to be able to put that
on because it's already mounted to the PCB and
00:03:56.080 --> 00:04:00.720
the battery holder is in the way so we're just
going to cut it off with a pair of side cutters
00:04:00.720 --> 00:04:05.200
now this thing is, I'm pretty sure it's made of
steel so it is actually rather difficult to cut so
00:04:05.200 --> 00:04:10.320
you probably don't want to use your good pair of
side cutters and make sure when you do cut them to
00:04:10.320 --> 00:04:15.440
cover them with your fingers so that the pieces of
metal don't go flying into your eye or somewhere
00:04:15.440 --> 00:04:20.960
around the room. Now with all that done it's just
a matter of putting the switch back together so
00:04:20.960 --> 00:04:27.840
you can just drop the new sliding element back in
and then you can put the metal bracket back on top...
00:04:37.120 --> 00:04:41.840
...and push down on it and you'll hear two
distinctive clicks to know it's locked in place
00:04:42.400 --> 00:04:47.440
and that's pretty much it should be good to
go we can see the switch works perfectly now.
00:04:49.200 --> 00:04:55.840
So as always thanks for watching