H2 build report #220
Replies: 8 comments 10 replies
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Hi @leehambley, thanks for sharing with us! Hope the little H2 is helpful in your work. |
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Hello, please tell me if you turn the spindle for some time, will the degree readings be displayed correctly? |
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I don't lose synchronisation here, but there is a reduction between the encoder and the spindle. At higher rpms it does struggle and I think the Stepper is not strong enough |
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@kachurovskiy I wanted to check if you still had the driver config files for one of your builds around? When I ran the geared setup above the ELS kind of worked, with timing pulleys it's faulting out due to overload every time I use it. I switched to pulleys because the gears were noisy. I'm also on a 50v PSU with 6A limit now (vs 24V@2A ). I've tried I think every combination of stiffness, inertia, gain control and everything else, but regardless, I essentially cannot run the machine at all anymore, I've tried microsteps from 4000 to 400 and nothing I do works. I may have overlooked in the repository if there was a motor parameters file, but I at least didn't find one. I'm now even running a 2:1 reduction to get more torque to the lead screw. Do you have any advice or suggestions before I convert the machine back to mechanical control ? |
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Thanks @kachurovskiy <3
I'm tempted to move away from the closed-loop stepper, to a regular Nema23 with 2 or more nM of torque and that should be fine, no wonder I'm struggling with effectively 0.3nM of torque at my disposal now! |
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The motor you linked is lovely indeed. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll update in a couple of weeks once I get it all working :) New pulleys are in the 3d printer in PLA-CF already to see how far I can get until the new motor and controller arrive. Happy holidays Maxim. LG aus Hamburg. |
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With the pulleys the right way round, and 200 steps per rev, it works more than well enough to run a scratch pass on aluminum and I I can't stop the carriage with my fingers anymore! |
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I'm a big fan of the NanoEls project and currently working on implementing it myself. Wanted to clear something up about the two motors that are discussed here, for future readers like me. The servo that @leehambley uses (the 0.6N servo), if utilized right, has the potential to be (much!) more powerful than the stepper that @kachurovskiy recommends. It just needs additional reduction. Let me show you by comparing the torque curves (as publishing on the stepperonline website). First is the curve for the 3N stepper: Here is the curve for the 0.6Nm servo: I am not an expert by any means (and might be wrong), but I just wanted to point out that Clough42 has done some amazing research into these motors, and there is a reason why he ended up using this one. Hope this helps others that are looking for a motor to drive the NanoEls 😃 Side question for @kachurovskiy , in this discussion you mention that having driver on the motor is a bad idea. In the hardware section I did see a recommendation for such a motor with integrated driver. Did you have some experience that caused you to change? Also, thank you very much for all the effort you put into this software! |
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I started on a H2 build more than a year ago, but due to incompatibility between my lathe housing, and the H2 enclosure I stalled for a while, also I rarely/never use my lathe and I didn't need to hurry. As a new owner of a Bambu X1, and having relearned FreeCAD after their 1.0 RC I decided to finish off the build.
The machine is a Optimum TU 2406 V - Vario; it's probably not dissimilar to any other asia-made lathe, however being a vario (variable speed) it had some decent built-in electronics with a 5, and 9v supply on the power board.
I was able to mount the stepper motor below the lead screw, under the fascia using 1:1 ratio gears which I custom printed. I would like to change this for 1:3 pulleys so I get more torque, but the 3d printed gears (with a filed-in keyway) work basically fine for now, however they are noisy due to not running perfectly round.
I originally had a Honeywell DIN rail 5, and 24v power supply in an electrical enclosure below the lathe, however I couldn't source a single cabinet large enough to house the comically-large 24v din rail power supply. I had an inexpensive no-name 24v/3.5A DC supply which came with some CNC kit I never used hanging around. This 24v PSU fits inside the side cover where the belt-drive and is conveniently close to where the main power switch.etc exist.
For the 5v, the machine's built-in tachometer already had 5v, which I tapped and used to power the Arduino.
Attached a bunch of pics, I hope someone gets some benefit from this thread.
Edit to add: the freecad files in the h2 directory seem to be an older version than the stls in the h2 directory; I stumbled over this and modified the printed case directly with a finger sander.
Edit again to add: the hand-drawn labels are actually 3d-printed into the case, but I had such a hard time to model the icons and project the geometry to have neat icons, that I gave up and hand-drew them in the slicer.
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