This FAQ was written for Facebook group of the owners of this cheap and great 3D printer. Unfortunately, Facebook sucks as a place to post large texts so I am placing them here. Feel free to send your pull requests if you want to add something.
Старая русскоязычная группа поддержки в ВК (её создали китайские сотрудники магазина, но забросили) и новая, которую ведут энтузиасты.
Micromake D1 comes in 3 versions:
- cheapest “pulley” version (with wheels)
- more expensive “linear rail” (with bearings)
- and the most expensive “hiwin” (high quality rails are used)
Optionally printer can be shipped with heated bed which allows you to print with ABS type of plastic, and not just PLA. Heated bed comes with larger PSU that can supply 16.5A and replaces weak stock PSU.
Printers get shipped with either old or new type of main controller board.
- You can earn cash back of about 5% when buying 3D printer on AliExpress, using Ebates or other service. Русскоязычные покупатели могут получить кэшбэк 7% на Letyshops.
- Good discussions on what to buy with your Micromake: here and here
- Official store (sells the original version in which all plastic parts are injection molded, with black oxidized aluminum profile)
Articles:
- Review of HiWin version in Russian: http://mysku.ru/blog/aliexpress/410...
- Review of D1 purchased on TaoBao (in Russian): http://mysku.ru/blog/aliexpress/394...
- Review of heated bed upgrade in Russian: http://mysku.ru/blog/aliexpress/431...
YouTube video reviews:
- tbd
- There is a PDF assembly manual in English and in Russian on Google Drive (link in next section).
- Official YouTube channel with instruction videos (English and Chinese): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCY... Note that original video files are in the official Google Drive folder.
- Playlists in Chinese on Yoku: http://www.youku.com/playlist_show/...Русскоязычные покупатели могут получить кэшбэк 7% на Letyshops.Русскоязычные покупатели могут получить кэшбэк 7% на Letyshops.Русскоязычные покупатели могут получить кэшбэк 7% на Letyshops.Русскоязычные покупатели могут получить кэшбэк 7% на Letyshops.
- There are 2 fans on the effector. One is used to constantly cool down the aluminum fins of the extruder. Second one will turn on just occasionally, to cool the model you print. Double check - the cooler that blows on the aluminum fins must be always on when printer is on.
- For the best results disassemble the printing head. Take out the hot end and apply some thermal paste on the tip that goes into “cooling” part with aluminum fins (same thermal paste that goes between computer’s CPU and cooler). Wrap the other tip that goes into the square block with the heater into teflon tape. This is the teflon tape that is used in the plumbing. This ensures the abrupt drop in the temperature between hot and cool zones of the hot end.
Assembly videos and official software are on Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/drive/fold....
Although primary file repository with newer software apperats to be on Chinese portal and file storage site, Baidu.
Google Drive has Repetier-Firmware version 0.92.9
and Micromake version 2.0.2
at the time of writing.
R.Mendelis shared CURA version 15.04.0917. It is in Chinese, check screenshot to see how to switch it to English.
GitHub repository of printer’s firmware (it is unknown whether it is fresh and/or original): https://github.com/coldnew/MICROMAK...
Micromake uses custom modified software called “CURA” - this software was originally developed for Ultimaker brand of printers and was “borrowed” by Chinese company that makes Micromake D1. “CURA” software has a special module used to calibrate printer and flash it with firmware. Please be aware that if you install heated bed upgrade, you need to enable checkbox in CURA and flash updated firmware to printer - see screenshot
HERE IS THE GUIDE ON CALIBRATION
Explanation of what “horizontal radius”, “diagonal rod length” and other terms mean: https://forum.repetier.com/discussi... (see illustrations!). There are different naming conventions, for example “horizontal radius” is referred to as “delta radius” in other projects.
Rod length should be measured from hole to hole, on “pulley version” of Micromake D1 it is 215mm
to 217mm
(value in CURA is wrong, it says 210mm
for some reason). Horizontal radius is about 95mm
.
- Official YouTube video (in Chinese) that describes calibration process
- Another video (in English), describes calibration using CURA
- Online calculator that asks you to perform several measurements and gives you the adjustments you need to make
- Some theory on calibrating delta printers: http://minow.blogspot.de/
- “Manual Delta Calibration using M665 and M666” (not tested) - YouTube video (ignore OpenSCAD part in it)
- “mini Kossel Calibration using Repetier FW”
- “Z-Leveling for Delta Printers with Repetier-Firmware” by Repetier
- OpenDACT(Delta Automatic Calibration Tool) - For Repetier - description demo
- tbd
Typical problems with printing (classification of defects):
- in English - http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubl...
- in Russian - http://3dtoday.ru/blogs/leoluch/defects-3d-printing-will-try-to-introduce-a-classification/ �
Replacing stock square nuts with t-nuts
Micromake D1 uses “E3D V5” printing head ((documentation)[http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v5_Documentation]). It is shipped with the standard copper nozzle with 0.4mm diameter. It has Teflon tube inside. (See photos in this Russian article on hot end types - http://3deshnik.ru/blogs/akdzg/razn...)
Consider buying a set of 0.2
, 0.3
and 0.4
mm drill bits - they are useful with cleaning nozzle from debris.
Micromake D1 uses “GT2” type belts.
- Replacing pulley with toothed version.
Stock rods are 217mm
in length.
- Using traxxas rods instead of stock rods (more detailed post)
- Using additional springs
- tbd
- You can greatly improve the speed of the warm-up if you place silicone mat or cork under the heated bed. It will also protect main board and wires from heat
- Warm-up speed could also be greatly improved if you raise the voltage of the PSU from default 12V to 13.9V. It is safe for main board.
- Green power connector is a fire hazard! It is not rated for 16A current and will fry. Solder the thick copper wire (1.5mm2 - 2.5mm2 thick) to the board directly - there are dedicated pads. (Link in English)
- Using connector from RC model instead
- You can put the PSU underneath the printer with this simple mod (article in Russian with lots of photos).
- Magnetic joint upgrade
- Adding light LEDs
- tbd
https://www.facebook.com/groups/173...
- Using FSR (force sensing resistors)
- Using weight sensors (in Russian) (in English) - work in progress
- Mechanical Z-probe
- Microswitch probe
- tbd
- Detailed explanation on how to enable 16 to 32 microstepping on the "old" board
- Microstepping (?): https://www.facebook.com/zzcatvs/posts/995106527263309?pnref=story
Stock main board appears to be standard RAMPS 1.4.
- Step-by-step guide on installing OctoPrint on cheap Raspberry clone, Orange PI PC: http://3dtoday.ru/blogs/eta4ever/orange-octopus-a-step-by-step-guide/
- tbd
Micromake’s representative in this group is @zzcatvs He shared the latest firmware in this post.
- List of other slicers used by members of this group
- Settings for RepetierHost
- Mention of the alternative “RichCal” firmware with autoleve feature on Google Groups. (Reported use of it by a member)
- Marlin firmware
- Detailed walkthrough - setting up Simplify 3D to work with Micromake - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsq... (please note that author starts with deleting initial config).
- Using Micromake D1 with KISSLICER - https://youtu.be/vlvetkP1EkA
- Installing RepetierHost and calibration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nex...
- tbd
- Forum for Micromake D1 owners on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/micromake/page:1 there
- Reddit thread on Micromake
- Wiki page on RepRap.org on “Kossel” family of delta printers - http://reprap.org/wiki/Kossel
- tbd